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This information is reprinted from the Beginner Topics
column of Hand Papermaking Newsletter #70 (April, 2005).
To learn how to order Hand Papermaking bi-annual magazine
and quarterly newsletter, click
here.
Setting Up a Studio
If you get serious about papermaking and decide to
dedicate a space to it--whether it be in your basement or
garage, or in a special place--here are a few tips I’ve
gathered over the years as I’ve visited other studios and
worked on setting up my own.
There are several steps in the papermaking process, and
you might choose to do them all in one location, or, you may
prepare your fiber in one location and make paper in
another. In either case, make sure your work area is free of
electrical hazards. If possible, install your outlets up off
the ground to prevent them from being exposed to water. Keep
extension cords well above the floor and far away from
faucets and hoses. Always cook fiber in a well-ventilated
area. Beating can be done anywhere--just be aware that the
pounding or blending can be noisy. Take the time to plan a
layout for your papermaking studio. There is a certain order
to the process and it is well worth it to set up
accordingly.
You do not need a very large work area for the actual
papermaking. You just need access to water and a table and
floor that can get wet. One easy solution is to work
outdoors. Keeping your work area clean can be tricky
outside, especially if it is windy, buggy, or sandy. “Stuff”
tends to end up in your pulp or your paper. You can reduce
this by covering your buckets and vats with mesh or plastic
when they are not in use. If you want to work inside but are
worried about damaging your floor and table, cover your
table and the surrounding floor with newspaper and/or
plastic. Duct tape is strong and waterproof and can be used
for securing plastic. Wherever I work, I line my strainer or
drain with a fine mesh or muslin cloth to collect tiny
fibers and prevent clogging.
Set your vat on a table surface at a comfortable height.
Place your couching station right next to it, so that you do
not have to carry your wet mould and sheet of paper very
far. Keep additional felts nearby, where you can grab them
as you need them. Work near your water supply to avoid
lugging heavy buckets of water back and forth. A garden hose
with a spray nozzle is a papermaker’s best friend.
Plastic buckets of all sizes come in handy in the
transportation of water and pulp. Extra pulp can be stored
in a bucket under the table for easy access when you need to
replenish the vat.
If you wish to remain dry when making paper, wear a
rubber apron and waterproof shoes or boots.
Finally, it is very important to properly care for your
papermaking equipment to assure that it will last for a long
time. Paper pulp sticks to everything and is easiest to
remove when still wet. Thoroughly clean your mould and
deckle and let them dry out after use. Avoid spraying water
through the back side of the mould, because it could force
fiber deeper between the layers of mesh. Store moulds and
deckles flat to prevent warping. Rinse your pellons or felts
to remove bits of pulp that might stick to the next sheet
couched onto them. Rinse out buckets, vats, etc., so that
the pulp residue does not dry stuck to your equipment. Wait
until your buckets are dry before you stack them
together--they stick to each other if stacked when wet and
are practically impossible to separate.
Portions excerpted from Papermaking with Plants, ©
1998, by Helen Hiebert with permission from Storey
Publishing. <www.storey.com>.
Copyright 2005 Hand Papermaking, Inc.
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