Currently she has four female PhD students working with her, applying a scientific approach to the challenge of creating financially viable alternative papers from local fibers that would otherwise go to waste. I spent a few days with Nambisan and her students at CUSAT. They are bright and hardworking, but the traditional Indian approach to education has made them more obedient than innovative. Despite Kerala's tradition of strong women, they seemed to be holding themselves back. Hoping to shift their over-reverence for paper to a more engaged immersion, I scrounged around Nambisan's office for a wide variety of papers, both commercial and handmade. Appealing to the intelligence of their senses which is so central to Indian culture, I asked the students to crumple, rip, and fold them, and to burnish, rattle, and subject them to any other "abuse" they could think of. Looks of horror passed over their faces. Then they got into it. The next day we experimented with beating various fibers, particularly banana leaf, by hand and in a blender, and combining them in different percentages. I encouraged them to follow their imaginations and to have fun. My orientation as artist, rather than scientist, may have given them permission to experiment without preconceived scientific theses. I told them about a ceramics teacher who divided his class in two, one half to be marked solely on the quality of their pots, the other judged by weight. At semester's end, 36 - hand papermaking the quality group had a few self-conscious pots; the quantity group had boxes of pots, some poorly made and awkward, others lively, imaginative, ingenious, even beautiful.2 I hoped that by loosening them up and allowing them to make leaps and mistakes, they would design new and unusual papers. I continued south to Trivandrum, the capital of Kerala, and then to the Self-Employed Women's Association (SEWA) Rural Centre, 16 kilometers outside the city. An Indian friend told me about the Rural Centre, a thoughtfully designed brick complex where poor women—battered, abandoned, widowed, or the sole support of their families—are hired to do the center's work. My friend had shown me a few of their paper products: file folders, blank books, and soap wrappers, made from chemically dyed recycled paper and cotton waste. The paper was fairly substantial, adequate but generic, and similar to other papers being made in India today. In no way did it reflect the botanical richness of Kerala or the lives of the women who made it. I offered to volunteer with them to see whether we could make their paper more reflective of its origins. The Rural Centre is a small paradise of mango, cashew, papaya, and coconut trees. Committed to environmental sustainability, SEWA is experimenting with small-scale farming, beekeeping, bio-diesel, and a new composting toilet. Several staff members bio-diesel, and a new composting toilet. Several staff members support the Ayurvedic doctor whose office is there, preparing support the Ayurvedic doctor whose office is there, preparing remedies, cooking, and housekeeping for his patients, both Indian remedies, cooking, and housekeeping for his patients, both Indian and foreign. and foreign. Their papermaking began years ago when a Belgian woman Their papermaking began years ago when a Belgian woman taught a small group of women in a poor, remote area. They taught a small group of women in a poor, remote area. They started with a few small screens and gradually expanded to their started with a few small screens and gradually expanded to their current setup. The center hired a man to make them a Hollander. current setup. The center hired a man to make them a Hollander. He built a full-sized industrial beater with a greater capacity He built a full-sized industrial beater with a greater capacity than required. It was difficult to adjust and wasted quantities of than required. It was difficult to adjust and wasted quantities of precious water. Their one large deckle box was very rusty. Since precious water. Their one large deckle box was very rusty. Since their instruction had been cursory, they routinely dripped water their instruction had been cursory, they routinely dripped water on newly formed sheets. Having no concept of the integrity of on newly formed sheets. Having no concept of the integrity of the deckle edge, they hung the paper to dry with the edges ripped the deckle edge, they hung the paper to dry with the edges ripped and distorted. That did not matter much since they trimmed their and distorted. That did not matter much since they trimmed their sheets. The power supply to the Hollander and the calendering sheets. The power supply to the Hollander and the calendering press was reliably unreliable. Their market was largely notebooks press was reliably unreliable. Their market was largely notebooks and other items for conferences hosted at the Rural Centre. One and other items for conferences hosted at the Rural Centre. One or two young women and a young man, Pradeep, the only male or two young women and a young man, Pradeep, the only male employee, were assigned to the paper mill on a regular basis. Four employee, were assigned to the paper mill on a regular basis. Four other women helped as needed. Pradeep was responsible for the other women helped as needed. Pradeep was responsible for the Hollander, deckle box, screw press, guillotine, and calendering Hollander, deckle box, screw press, guillotine, and calendering press as well as any other mechanical or technical tasks around press as well as any other mechanical or technical tasks around the center. the center. During my first few days there, we gathered banana leaves and During my first few days there, we gathered banana leaves and stems, pineapple leaves, pandanus, and other local fibers; cooked stems, pineapple leaves, pandanus, and other local fibers; cooked them in lye; hand beat them; and formed them on small screens them in lye; hand beat them; and formed them on small screens into thin sheets using okra as a formation aid and combining different into thin sheets using okra as a formation aid and combining different fibers in varying percentages. These crisp, undyed papers fibers in varying percentages. These crisp, undyed papers in natural colors, ranging from off-white through yellows, greens, in natural colors, ranging from off-white through yellows, greens, and tans, were a radical departure from their usual output. We and tans, were a radical departure from their usual output. We also combined local fibers with their regular recycled paper and also combined local fibers with their regular recycled paper and cotton to make large sheets with more texture and visual interest. cotton to make large sheets with more texture and visual interest. We added ferns and leaves, and experimented with blind embossing We added ferns and leaves, and experimented with blind embossing using large, deeply veined dry leaves. Though not startling by using large, deeply veined dry leaves. Though not startling by world standards, the results were very different from the handmade world standards, the results were very different from the handmade paper usually available in India. paper usually available in India. The Centre's kitchen was equipped with propane burners, but The Centre's kitchen was equipped with propane burners, but to cook paper fibers we used traditional clay stoves under a tin roof. to cook paper fibers we used traditional clay stoves under a tin roof. Fuel was the abundant supply of dry coconut leaves and ribs that Fuel was the abundant supply of dry coconut leaves and ribs that fell from the Centre's trees. Compared to their usual routine of fell from the Centre's trees. Compared to their usual routine of loading the Hollander and flicking the switch, staff initially found cooking and hand beating fiber laborious and time-consuming. loading the Hollander and flicking the switch, staff initially found cooking and hand beating fiber laborious and time-consuming. Papermaking at the Rural Centre was a low priority compared Papermaking at the Rural Centre was a low priority compared to almost everything else. The women worked at SEWA because to almost everything else. The women worked at SEWA because they needed a job, not out of interest in handmade paper and local they needed a job, not out of interest in handmade paper and local fibers. They had not seen other handmade papers so they had fibers. They had not seen other handmade papers so they had nothing to compare theirs to. Despite the center's commitment to nothing to compare theirs to. Despite the center's commitment to sustainability, the women sloshed water wildly as they rinsed the sustainability, the women sloshed water wildly as they rinsed the cooked fiber. They were resistant to even the most rudimentary cooked fiber. They were resistant to even the most rudimentary system of measuring alkali, preferring to dump in lye in great random system of measuring alkali, preferring to dump in lye in great random quantities. I carried pH strips in my pocket, testing the cook quantities. I carried pH strips in my pocket, testing the cook water and the rinsed fiber over and over. Gradually, they took an water and the rinsed fiber over and over. Gradually, they took an interest in a simple measuring system and obtaining pH papers. interest in a simple measuring system and obtaining pH papers. After we had made several batches of paper, I led them through After we had made several batches of paper, I led them through the same exercise I had done with Nambisan's PhD students— the same exercise I had done with Nambisan's PhD students— rumpling, crumpling, folding, tearing, and burnishing a variety rumpling, crumpling, folding, tearing, and burnishing a variety of papers. I introduced the idea of evaluating their paper in terms of papers. I introduced the idea of evaluating their paper in terms of how well it fulfilled the requirements of its intended use. Staff of how well it fulfilled the requirements of its intended use. Staff began asking questions and proposing experiments of their own. began asking questions and proposing experiments of their own. We talked about designing cards that reflected cultural traditions We talked about designing cards that reflected cultural traditions of Kerala. The women became conscious of not wasting fiber that of Kerala. The women became conscious of not wasting fiber that had taken so long to prepare. I helped them to make journals with had taken so long to prepare. I helped them to make journals with samples of the papers we had made and notes on our processes, samples of the papers we had made and notes on our processes, a reference for them, though they did it mostly to humor me. We a reference for them, though they did it mostly to humor me. We persisted. On the road up to the Rural Centre a military camp displays persisted. On the road up to the Rural Centre a military camp displays a large billboard: BASH ON REGARDLESS. I laughed the a large billboard: BASH ON REGARDLESS. I laughed the first time I saw it, then took it as my motto. first time I saw it, then took it as my motto. I left the women on their own for a few days to take a short I left the women on their own for a few days to take a short vacation north of Kerala. Before I left, I assigned some papermaking vacation north of Kerala. Before I left, I assigned some papermaking experiments. On my return, the staff proudly showed me their experiments. On my return, the staff proudly showed me their work. Unfortunately, during my final week, they received a large work. Unfortunately, during my final week, they received a large order for blank conference books made with their usual paper, so order for blank conference books made with their usual paper, so we could not pursue the new papers further. I left unsure whether we could not pursue the new papers further. I left unsure whether they would continue the work we had begun. Six months later, I they would continue the work we had begun. Six months later, I was thrilled to receive a stack of large sheets of the new papers that was thrilled to receive a stack of large sheets of the new papers that they had made after I left. they had made after I left. Beyond refining South India's handmade paper, the next challenge Beyond refining South India's handmade paper, the next challenge is market creation. In centuries past, India's royal families is market creation. In centuries past, India's royal families were wealthy and discriminating patrons of the regions' finest were wealthy and discriminating patrons of the regions' finest crafts. With the end of royal states, some traditions have died for crafts. With the end of royal states, some traditions have died for want of patronage. Deep appreciation of the remaining arts is now want of patronage. Deep appreciation of the remaining arts is now in the hands of a tiny group of artists, curators, and collectors who in the hands of a tiny group of artists, curators, and collectors who know and appreciate fine crafts, but generally lack the wealth to know and appreciate fine crafts, but generally lack the wealth to keep them going. SEWA's unfamiliarity with the possibilities of keep them going. SEWA's unfamiliarity with the possibilities of handmade paper is parallel to that of most Indians today. For years, handmade paper is parallel to that of most Indians today. For years, India's best contemporary handmade paper has been made in two India's best contemporary handmade paper has been made in two centers: the Sri Aurobindo Ashram's paper mill in Pondicherry, centers: the Sri Aurobindo Ashram's paper mill in Pondicherry, south of Chennai (formerly Madras); and in Sanganer, an old papermaking south of Chennai (formerly Madras); and in Sanganer, an old papermaking village in Rajasthan. I have heard that some traditional village in Rajasthan. I have heard that some traditional paper is still being made in Sanganer. Apart from that possibility, I paper is still being made in Sanganer. Apart from that possibility, I am unaware of any Indian papermakers using traditional materials am unaware of any Indian papermakers using traditional materials or technology, or making burnished plant papers for miniature or technology, or making burnished plant papers for miniature painting, though there would be some market for it. Today's miniature painting, though there would be some market for it. Today's miniature artists paint on the backs of fine old papers, or not so fine, artists paint on the backs of fine old papers, or not so fine, somewhat old papers. The paintings are skillful, often beautiful, somewhat old papers. The paintings are skillful, often beautiful, and merit a reliable source of paper. and merit a reliable source of paper. In South India's larger cities and tourist hubs, department In South India's larger cities and tourist hubs, department stores and a few specialty shops sell endless varieties of neon-colored, stores and a few specialty shops sell endless varieties of neon-colored, machine-embroidered, flocked, sequined, and splattered papers machine-embroidered, flocked, sequined, and splattered papers labeled "handmade." These papers lack entirely the integrity labeled "handmade." These papers lack entirely the integrity of material that is a hallmark of fine paper. There are a tiny number of material that is a hallmark of fine paper. There are a tiny number of shops selling real handmade paper. of shops selling real handmade paper. How to increase the domestic market for true handmade paper How to increase the domestic market for true handmade paper is a challenge. A more elitist approach might include: educating is a challenge. A more elitist approach might include: educating artists and upwardly mobile Indians in the aesthetic of fine hand- artists and upwardly mobile Indians in the aesthetic of fine hand- Bindhu collects pineapple leaves for papermaking fiber. An ikat weaver at Pochampalli in Andra Pradesh, central India. Note the white Bindhu collects pineapple leaves for papermaking fiber. An ikat weaver at Pochampalli in Andra Pradesh, central India. Note the white marks painted around the terracotta pit where he sits at his loom. These marks marks painted around the terracotta pit where he sits at his loom. These marks indicate cloth and thread's sacred place in Indian culture, a status rarely granted indicate cloth and thread's sacred place in Indian culture, a status rarely granted paper. paper. 38 • hand papermaking 38 - hand papermaking made paper; encouraging high-end hotels and restaurants to made paper; encouraging high-end hotels and restaurants to use beautiful papers for menus and in-house brochures; and use beautiful papers for menus and in-house brochures; and introducing architects and designers to alternative uses of paper introducing architects and designers to alternative uses of paper for wall coverings, lampshades, or wedding invitations. for wall coverings, lampshades, or wedding invitations. All of this is happening to some degree. Given the growing All of this is happening to some degree. Given the growing middle class, the market for such paper is increasing, but middle class, the market for such paper is increasing, but slowly. It comes back to education. slowly. It comes back to education. Another approach is to create particular papers for general Another approach is to create particular papers for general use. As one example, Nambisan is researching the requirements use. As one example, Nambisan is researching the requirements of a paper that the postal service needs for official of a paper that the postal service needs for official certificates. She hopes such papers might be handmade by certificates. She hopes such papers might be handmade by poor women whose families would benefit from the income. poor women whose families would benefit from the income. This too has challenges. Several initiatives to teach homebound This too has challenges. Several initiatives to teach homebound women to process fiber for papermaking projects and, women to process fiber for papermaking projects and, in some cases, to make paper items for sale have come up in some cases, to make paper items for sale have come up against the women's lack of initiative or understanding of against the women's lack of initiative or understanding of the project. Working at home sounds great, but in practice the project. Working at home sounds great, but in practice the women often feel isolated and unmotivated. Communal the women often feel isolated and unmotivated. Communal workshops might reduce isolation but that requires funding. workshops might reduce isolation but that requires funding. In India's high-tech boom, funding handicraft may seem like In India's high-tech boom, funding handicraft may seem like a step backward. Kerala is a rich province with a relatively a step backward. Kerala is a rich province with a relatively high standard of living, but that does not mean the wealth high standard of living, but that does not mean the wealth trickles down, certainly not to the women with whom I trickles down, certainly not to the women with whom I worked. In today's India, where cash is king and connections worked. In today's India, where cash is king and connections to the land are being diluted, maintaining tradition may seem to the land are being diluted, maintaining tradition may seem of questionable value. of questionable value. In Japan, raw kozo and hemp have long been symbols In Japan, raw kozo and hemp have long been symbols of life force and integrity, and used as sacred offerings. Papers of life force and integrity, and used as sacred offerings. Papers made from these fibers retain cultural resonance beyond made from these fibers retain cultural resonance beyond their role as substrate.3 Despite India's rising affluence, deep their role as substrate.3 Despite India's rising affluence, deep ties to the earth remain core to Indian values. In South India, ties to the earth remain core to Indian values. In South India, banana flowers are the carved motifs on temple and palace banana flowers are the carved motifs on temple and palace ceilings, banana fruits and leaves are sacred offerings, and banana ceilings, banana fruits and leaves are sacred offerings, and banana leaves serve as thali plates. Banana trees, which re-grow quickly from leaves serve as thali plates. Banana trees, which re-grow quickly from their roots after being cut, are a symbol of regeneration, similar to their roots after being cut, are a symbol of regeneration, similar to bamboo in East Asia. Coconut, too, has deep spiritual associations bamboo in East Asia. Coconut, too, has deep spiritual associations and possibilities for papermaking. Given these earth-based connections and possibilities for papermaking. Given these earth-based connections to food and spirituality, it is not so farfetched to imagine papers to food and spirituality, it is not so farfetched to imagine papers made from banana and other local fibers having resonance in a new made from banana and other local fibers having resonance in a new South Indian paper tradition. This would be particularly welcome if it South Indian paper tradition. This would be particularly welcome if it could provide meaningful work for poor women. could provide meaningful work for poor women. In a wider sense, the question of paper's basic place in a particular In a wider sense, the question of paper's basic place in a particular culture may be something to consider as we travel the world teaching culture may be something to consider as we travel the world teaching papermaking. If a family owns just one book in the Judeo-Christian, papermaking. If a family owns just one book in the Judeo-Christian, Islamic, or Buddhist culture, it is most likely one of the core religious Islamic, or Buddhist culture, it is most likely one of the core religious texts. In contrast, Hindu observance relies largely on Brahmin sacrificial texts. In contrast, Hindu observance relies largely on Brahmin sacrificial experts to conduct complex rituals. Though Hinduism has libraries experts to conduct complex rituals. Though Hinduism has libraries of sacred writings, these are rarely read at home by lay people. of sacred writings, these are rarely read at home by lay people. In South India, paper has been associated more with business than In South India, paper has been associated more with business than spirituality.4 Though this sensitivity is not required to impart papermaking spirituality.4 Though this sensitivity is not required to impart papermaking technology, at a subtle level, it may influence how fertile the technology, at a subtle level, it may influence how fertile the ground is and the way papermaking is taken up. ground is and the way papermaking is taken up. I am struck by the similarity of my experiences with urban PhD I am struck by the similarity of my experiences with urban PhD students and poor rural women. Though the two groups had very students and poor rural women. Though the two groups had very different needs, backgrounds, and motivations, they shared common different needs, backgrounds, and motivations, they shared common ground.5 Both groups were energized when their curiosity was engaged ground.5 Both groups were energized when their curiosity was engaged and their powers of inquiry sparked. One key to papermaking's and their powers of inquiry sparked. One key to papermaking's relevance may lie in grounding and broadening a project's vision, relevance may lie in grounding and broadening a project's vision, giving teachers, workers, and funders a stake in papermaking not giving teachers, workers, and funders a stake in papermaking not only as a practical activity but also one with rich cultural connections. only as a practical activity but also one with rich cultural connections. The author wishes to thank Dr. Padma Nambisan and Suhag Shirodkar The author wishes to thank Dr. Padma Nambisan and Suhag Shirodkar for their hospitality and hours of stimulating exchange. Shirodkar wrote for their hospitality and hours of stimulating exchange. Shirodkar wrote on Jenny Pinto's work with banana fiber paper for Hand Papermaking on Jenny Pinto's work with banana fiber paper for Hand Papermaking vol. 21, no. 2 (Winter 2006). Currently Pinto is researching the possibility vol. 21, no. 2 (Winter 2006). Currently Pinto is researching the possibility of reviving traditional Indian kagzi paper on her farm in rural Maharashtra. of reviving traditional Indian kagzi paper on her farm in rural Maharashtra. ___________ ___________ notes notes 1. In the north, Muslim kagzis, or papermakers, made highly burnished plant paper 1. In the north, Muslim kagzis, or papermakers, made highly burnished plant paper as substrate for Islamic calligraphy and miniature painting. The British successfully as substrate for Islamic calligraphy and miniature painting. The British successfully undermined that tradition, flooding the Indian market with their own machine-made undermined that tradition, flooding the Indian market with their own machine-made paper and putting Indian papermakers out of work. paper and putting Indian papermakers out of work. 2. Sarah Zoutewelle-Morris, "Getting Unstuck," Letter Arts Review vol. 15, no. 2 2. Sarah Zoutewelle-Morris, "Getting Unstuck," Letter Arts Review vol. 15, no. 2 (1999). (1999). 3. In India, textiles have a parallel metaphorical role to paper in Japan and other 3. In India, textiles have a parallel metaphorical role to paper in Japan and other parts of Asia. In many parts of India, the loom, thread, and cloth appear in myths as parts of Asia. In many parts of India, the loom, thread, and cloth appear in myths as symbols for creation and life itself. For more on these ideas, see Dorothy Field, Paper symbols for creation and life itself. For more on these ideas, see Dorothy Field, Paper and Threshold (Ann Arbor, MI: The Legacy Press, 2007). and Threshold (Ann Arbor, MI: The Legacy Press, 2007). 4. In the West, appreciation for fine handmade paper is confined mainly to artists 4. In the West, appreciation for fine handmade paper is confined mainly to artists and conservators. In our IT-obsessed, supposedly paperless society, we are flooded and conservators. In our IT-obsessed, supposedly paperless society, we are flooded with reams of forgettable paper. This glut lowers any sensitivity we might have had with reams of forgettable paper. This glut lowers any sensitivity we might have had for paper as a numinous material, even as it raises the appreciation of a wider public for paper as a numinous material, even as it raises the appreciation of a wider public for "exotic" handmade paper. for "exotic" handmade paper. 5.Their differences in educational background are only a matter of degree. Although 5.Their differences in educational background are only a matter of degree. Although the literacy rate in India as a whole is 61%, with women having a lower rate than the literacy rate in India as a whole is 61%, with women having a lower rate than men, in Kerala the literacy rate is 100% across the board. men, in Kerala the literacy rate is 100% across the board. At the SEWA Rural Centre, Ritha, an assistant to the doctor, prepares an At the SEWA Rural Centre, Ritha, an assistant to the doctor, prepares an ayurvedic remedy.